Staining and waxing wooden bannisters-Pin on house ideas

Why would you want to stain wood? You might be bored of the colour. The surface may be damaged or in serious need of a facelift. Maybe your decking needs refinishing. Whatever your motivation, using a wood stain rich in pigments on bare or stripped-down wood changes the colour and also highlights the lovely grain.

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Always Cum mes a test area first. Hello Major problem! Sealer can also be applied after staining to reduce the number of finish coats necessary. How will you know if you have Staininb little or too much stain on the cabinet? So we used the General Finishes store locator and went to a local […]. Cheers, Nick.

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The top coat could be an Oil or a Varnish and either of these will seal and protect the wood and Staaining, with the Varnish creating a seal on the surface and the Oil soaking in and giving a more natural finish. This product is likely to wear quicker than a dedicated decking stain or oil and could pose a slip hazard. Colour matching new floor boards with old can be difficult but not impossible. And then a top coat product, such as a Hard Wax Oil that will seal gannisters protect the floor as well as enhancing the colour and natural look and feel of the wood. Is this possible? Take your paintbrush and apply a thin coat of stain or Chicory root pregnancy to the banister. Kind regards Sam. Once you have the colour that you want then a Staining and waxing wooden bannisters coat product for protection can be considered and depending on your preference you could look at a Varnish or Hard Wax Oil. This will prevent you from getting stain on them as you reapply it to the banister. I would be happy to take a look at some Staining and waxing wooden bannisters for you and see if I can make any suggestions.

Original Poster.

  • Staining a banister changes the look and feel of the staircase and help protect the wood against everyday wear and tear.
  • If your old wood banister's finish is dull, faded, or scratched, you can give it new life simply by applying new stain or varnish.
  • Discussion in ' Decorating and Painting ' started by andytx , 28 Dec
  • Why would you want to stain wood?
  • Our guest today is sharing her stair banister makeover: just look at the before and after!

Over time, wood banisters start to show signs of wear and tear from constant use. Staining not only makes a banister look like new, but it also adds a layer of protection to the wood underneath the finish. Whether you're installing a new banister or you want to revitalize your old, worn one, staining it can bring out its full potential to beautify your indoor space. Remove the existing finish on a banister by stripping it off, either by sanding or with a chemical stripper.

The more thorough you are during the stripping process, the better your new application of stain will work and look. Start sanding with a medium-grit sandpaper to remove light nicks and dents, and the existing finish. With the sandpaper wrapped around it, move the sandpaper back and forth as you move along the entire length. Banisters with flat surfaces can be sanded with a sanding block.

Sand the finish until the wood is bare. Test it in an inconspicuous area on the banister. If your banister is already installed, open windows or doors in the area. Otherwise, work in a well-ventilated area such as your open garage or on an outdoor deck or patio. Make sure your work area is dry and dust-free.

When you begin refinishing, place a tarp or drop cloth underneath and secure it with masking tape where necessary. If the banister is large, consider using a power sander. Take care not to damage the piece by sanding too deeply. Use medium- and low-grit sandpaper appropriate for the wood. Sand carefully by hand around decoratively curved areas. For a new, bare-wood banister, simply sand it with fine-grit sandpaper before you stain. Remember to remove sanding dust with a cloth or clean rag.

Using chemical strippers is an easier method. Most chemical strippers need to be mixed with water, so check the manufacturer's directions before applying. Using a medium-sized paintbrush or clean rag, apply the solution evenly over the surface.

Let it soak in for 20 to 30 minutes then use a plastic paint scraper, rag or sponge to wipe off the old stain. Once you've removed the old finish from the surface, use a clean rag to wipe it down so that the wood is completely bare.

Let it dry. If you use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish, it's a good idea to lightly sand the surface afterwards with a fine-grit sandpaper. This will ensure a tighter bond between the wood and the new coats of stain. Always follow manufacturer's instructions and wear rubber gloves and protective goggles when using strong chemicals. Use chemical strippers clearly marked "no cleanup" or "will wash away with water.

Residue from the "wash away" type can be removed by rinsing with water. Be aware that water may raise the grain of the wood. Lightly sand to reduce this effect. Heat guns can be used as a supplement to other methods to remove particularly stubborn finishes. Before you stain, consider applying sanding sealer. Applying sanding sealer is similar to priming the wood for paint.

The sealer reduces the tendency of some woods to absorb stains unevenly. Sealer can also be applied after staining to reduce the number of finish coats necessary. When applying sanding sealer, first use a small-sized paintbrush to brush the surface, then wipe clean with a cloth.

Shake the can of sealer thoroughly and apply two thin coats using a small- to medium-sized paintbrush. Avoid allowing the sealer to puddle or fill in decorative grooves. Wipe off excess with a rag and allow the sealer to dry completely before lightly sanding with medium-grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain. Wipe the area with a clean cloth.

There are a couple of different types of stains to use. Oil-based stains penetrate into the wood without raising the grain but carry a strong odor. Water-based stains are more environmentally friendly and offer easy cleanup using soap and water. Water-based stains also come in convenient gel formulas that are easy to apply with less mess.

Apply a thin, even coat of stain with a cloth, sponge or medium-sized paintbrush and allow it to penetrate into the wood. Brush in the direction of the wood grain and cover the entire banister until it is wet with stain. Let it dry for a couple of minutes and then wipe off excess stain with a clean cloth. Allow the piece to dry completely. Coat once for a light stain or apply additional coats to create a darker color. Lightly sand in between coats with fine-grit sandpaper.

If you are using water-based stains, you can minimize raising the grain by moistening the wood with a damp cloth and sanding. Allow the wood to dry completely and sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper. Repeat as necessary. Let the stain dry completely before proceeding to the next step. Check stain manufacturer packaging for specific dry times. Apply polyurethane sealant to seal the new stain finish. Apply it using a cloth or with a small- to medium-sized paintbrush in smooth, even strokes along the direction of the grain.

Hold the brush vertically while applying. Overlap brushstrokes when moving on to the next area. Start at a corner and work it in gradually in a consistent pattern so you don't have bare spots. Let it dry completely this usually takes a couple of hours.

You may want to add a couple of coats. In between coats once the last has dried , lightly sand the surface with a fine-grit sandpaper. Use a cloth to wipe the piece down or use a brush to remove any residue and debris from sanding. Apply the next coat and let it dry. Before you begin, use the shopping list below to uncheck the tools you already have to complete this project. Then, print or save your updated list and bring it to your local True Value hardware store , where an expert Hardwarian will give you the remaining tools and expert advice you need to complete this project.

You can also shop online for these project items at TrueValue. Protect what matters most with these home safety precautions and fire prevention tips. Learn How. Learn More. You may now add items to your collection anywhere you see the Add icon.

Learn more about the Project Box here. Home Project Library Stain a Banister. Stain a Banister Level: Beginner. Share this project. Helpful Tip For a new, bare-wood banister, simply sand it with fine-grit sandpaper before you stain. Helpful Tip If you use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish, it's a good idea to lightly sand the surface afterwards with a fine-grit sandpaper. Safety Alerts! Never strip furniture near an open flame as stripping chemicals can ignite.

Safety Alert! Never refinish near an open flame as stains can ignite. Helpful Tip If you are using water-based stains, you can minimize raising the grain by moistening the wood with a damp cloth and sanding. Good job! You're done. Your banister should now be an elegant accent of your home.

Sanding block Medium-grit sandpaper Fine-grit sandpaper Masking tape Large drop cloth Tarps Painter's tape Power sander Cloths or clean rags Chemical stripping solution Medium-sized paintbrush Plastic paint scraper Sponge Rubber gloves Safety glasses Heat gun optional Sanding sealer Stain brush Stain Polyurethane sealant Additional items: 60 character limit.

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Manns also make a range of wood stains for hardwoods. Huuuuge improvement! I was wondering if you could advise me. If it is currently oiled then you can only apply and oil or perhaps a wax. You could have a look at the Osmo Teak Oil which is a thin oil for exterior use. Test areas are strongly recommended and please do let me know if you have any further questions.

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters. Before Staining Wood – Know what wood type you’re dealing with…

Love, love, love! I redid my railings and banisters this year and blogged about it, although my project was not easy at all since I had to stain all the railings around the existing balusters which required way to much taping off. I also painted each white, a lot of detail work! Yours turned out great, as usual! What is your blog? I will be doing mine without removing the baulsters, I would love to see your tutorial!

My kids and I were just driving yesterday and singing loudly while my son was DJing from his iPod. What a great tutorial Kelly! Blonde oak be gone! Quick question…for the poly, do you recommend oil based or water based?? The refinished staircase looks great, but what struck me most about this post after the writing, bc your sense of humor is right there with mine!

Still, very cool! Thank you so much! Why is THAT there? Girl, we could become a great girl band at 75 mph because I sing like Alicia Keys at that speed!

This could be fall project. Thanks, pretty mama! I am so impressed by your blogger dedication in reenacting the staining process! I would love to do this for our stairs…except that our honey oak banister connects to our honey oak stairs, which lead to our honey oak floors upstairs and downstairs…. You crack me up! The staircase is beautiful by the way! We have iron balusters, but a lighter stain that I would love to make darker!

Wish me luck! Yours came out beautifully! Drat, I was afraid of that. We need to restain no less then two staircases…. We have new flooring all through our house after a hot water leak that went undetected for far too long. The insurance company was really great in letting us replace all the flooring. I chose a dark, handscraped new floor, and they look nice. I was going to ask you how you were able to stain the stair treads or whatever those things are called without getting it all over your carpet.

Then I figured out that was new carpeting in your case. Any thoughts? I really cannot replace my carpet. Thanks for this tutorial. This is the first time I have ever visited your blog. I really like it! BTW, I love your big scrolly iron balusters. No need for any regret there in my opinion. Thanks so much! I bet it depends on how firmly your carpets are attached to the stairs.

Hope it works out for you! What a beautiful transformation! I really enjoyed how simple you made it seem, like even I could do it. Do you think that I could use this same process for staining my old wood cabinets? Thanks for your fantastic blog! Your blog is giving me hope that we can make it happen. I also wanted to blog about our journey, do you have any tips for a photo editor you use to add all your captions??

That is SO exciting. I use photoshop for everything, but I have a lot of friends who use free programs like picmonkey. Good luck! Thank you! Great blog. Mine turned out great. Reading this motivated me to make it happen. Good post. I learn something totally new and challenging on sites I stumbleupon on a daily basis.

It will always be useful to read through articles from other writers and use something from other sites. Thanks for sharing. Its really a great help to everyone…. Thanks so much for this tutorial! Much appreciated info. The overall design of your staircase may seem to call for one style of baluster or another, which will help you to narrow it down as you are shopping. All the elements of a staircase need to integrate well. Your stairs look fabulous and you have given me the incentive to tackle my railings and staircase.

Like you, we have that orangey stain on our red oak hardwood floors. I read that you used the dark walnut stain on your railings and banisters. What stain did you use to refinish your hardwood floors? I am not sure how I stumbled across this post on Pinterest but I am so glad I did! My stairs, 4 years later, still look like your before picture. Your post makes the project look totally doable! And your ballasters look awesome too! When you applied the citristrip, after you scraped it off how long did you wait to stain?

We tried on a small piece and the stain is still tacky. It has sat overnight. Our home was built in about and it too has light oak everything so we have been busy slowly reworking the light oak. I was researching how to add wrought iron to an existing staircase and I found your blog :. We will have to cut them out, however, the job is very doable over the period of a few weekends to strip, stain, cut, etc. Your blog offered new inspiration as usual.

Thank you again for sharing! Thanks for this and the iron ballasts tutorial. I have been wanting to do this as I also hate my honey oak staircase!

Thanks for sharing this! Your railings and balustrade look so much nicer now with the cast iron! I think I would have to have a professional do this for me, but at least I know how the process goes if I want to make repairs myself! Thanks for explaining how I should refinish my stair railings. Removing the balusters first seems like a good step to take. It helps to know that I can twist them off and lift them out of the railing. I was wondering how to remove them so that I can use them for my railing later, so it helps to know that removing my balusters is pretty easy.

Hello, my wife and I are refinishing our railings. I have followed your step by step blog. I have hit a bit of a snag, when I went to sand the coat of polyurethane off it stared to take some of the stain off. Do you know what may be causing this? It should just be a light sanding. In the last post, I showed you how to stain your wooden railings… and today we talk iron balusters.

Glamorous, glamorous […]. Another shot […]. I am most looking forward to her post about refinishing stair railing. I took their suggestions, and coupled […]. Leave this field empty. The Journey to a D. From the Blog Subscribe Now. How to refinish your stair railings and sing like Adele! I used Citristrip. Refinishing gloves. You need them. Signed: your mom. I used these 3M Tekk gloves. Wood stain. I used this Minwax Dark Walnut. This is what I used. An old, crappy brush is perfect! Plastic scrapers, like these.

Remove the balusters First we gotta bust out the white wooden balusters! Protect the walls and floor. JoinTheClub 3. Strip the existing finish Adios, honey oak! Your days are over! Stain that junk! Sharing is what friends do:.

Comments Shannon says:. August 8, at am. Kelly says:. Trina Let's Just Build a House says:. August 8, at pm. Ashley AttemptsAtDomestication says:. Elizabeth Southern Color says:. Katie pps says:. Allyson says:. Kelly Corner of Main says:. Lauren The Thinking Closet says:. August 9, at am. Lora says:. August 9, at pm. Kayla says:. Blessings, Kayla. Stephanie says:. May 30, at am. Julia cuckoo4design says:.

Bethany Dwellings By DeVore says:. Unscrew the banister from the metal brackets. Lift gently to dislodge it from on top of the posts and balusters. Cover the steps with plastic sheeting even. Open windows and doors to ventilate your work area if you did not remove the banister. If insufficient ventilation is available, place a fan near the top of the stairs to blow the fumes away from the area. Do not point the fan directly at the banister.

Sand away the old finish with medium-grit sandpaper fitted in a hand sander to remove the old finish. Then sand again with a fine-grit sandpaper. Use a profile sander to clean the old finish out of grooves and hard to reach places. Always follow the grain of the wood as you sand to prevent splintering. Use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish, If you are working in a well ventilated area and have removed the banister.

Let the stripper penetrate the stain and then scrap the gummy mess away. Discard into a metal bucket. Pre-stain the banister with a wood conditioner.

On softer woods, including pine and cedar, the stain will absorb unevenly without it. Rub the banister with the cloth for smaller pore woods.

For oak, mahogany or ash, apply the stain with a bristle brush, working it deep into the pores. Apply the stain evenly across the entire banister. Wipe away excess stain, following the grain of the wood as you go.

Leave the stain to dry completely and repeat the process until the wood is as dark as you desire. Then pour the varnish into a fresh paint tray.

Apply the varnish with the china bristle brush to seal the wood and protect it. Brush with the grain and not against it.

How to Paint / Stain Wood Stair Railings (Oak Banisters & Spindles) WITHOUT SANDING!

Why would you want to stain wood? You might be bored of the colour. The surface may be damaged or in serious need of a facelift. Maybe your decking needs refinishing. Whatever your motivation, using a wood stain rich in pigments on bare or stripped-down wood changes the colour and also highlights the lovely grain. Is it a softwood or hardwood? They behave differently, and the application process and end results are different. How do you tell them apart? Softwoods include pines, firs and cedars.

Hardwoods include oak, walnut and birch. In between you have a few oddities. Box, for example, is a surprisingly soft hardwood and fir is a very hard softwood. Every piece of wood is different. Every tree is unique, even within the same species. Oil-based wood stains last for ages, penetrating deep into the wood, sealing and protecting it and enhancing its beauty. They dry more slowly so you have more time to work with them. Pastels are also oil-based, giving you a lovely pastel colour while highlighting the grain.

They smell less and dry faster, usually within a couple of hours. You can clean up with ordinary soap and water instead of solvents and you get a much wider choice of bright colours.

What else is there? The beauty of coloured wood stain is the sheer variety of shades and tones. Everything from clean, crisp white wood stain for contemporary living and working spaces to subtle grey wood stain, dramatic black wood stain and a multitude of other beautiful wood stain colours.

We stock a vast range of coloured wood stain, including the glorious Osmo Country Colour : opaque, satin-matt and available in a host of beautiful shades including blues, greens, greys, reds, oranges and more. Also see our range of Ronseal Wood Stains. How do you remove coloured wood stains? This very much depends on the type of wood being stained and the stain used.

Spirit-based wood stains can usually be removed by scrubbing with cellulose thinners, methylated spirit or white spirit depending on the type of stain. The only way to remove these is by sanding the wood back. Fillers that have been specifically designed to be stainable can often be over-coated with wood oils and varnishes. We provide a huge range of water, solvent and oil-based wood stains for tinting more or less any wooden, cork or stone surface you can think of — inside and out!

A guest post by Kate Goldstone. My problem is that it looks orange in my sitting room. Added to this, my current furniture is mostly mid-brown, and the teak sideboard just looks wrong. Can I apply a stain over oiled teak, and can I produce a mid to dark brown colour without affecting its lovely grain? Many thanks, Penelope. Thank you for getting in touch. If it is currently oiled then you can only apply and oil or perhaps a wax. The oil is dependent on how saturated the wood currently is but as a guide if the oil was applied within the last 2 — 3 years on a teak substrate it is unlikely to take further oil at this time.

If the oil Older then you could consider a fresh coat after the right preparation. Other wise could look at a coloured wax such as the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this could add lustre and colour to the sideboard and still leave it looking very natural. I hope that helps and please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page for further advice.

I have painted newly laid deck boards with a water based decking stain with two coats as instructed. However, it is already showing signs of wear from my dogs claws and comes off with cleaning. I am hoping to re-coat and then cover with an oil based varnish. Store assistants have not been able to offer advice so far. Thanks in advance. Would you be able to email me with details of which product you have used? And when it was applied? And then I can advice you moving forward on how to treat your decking.

Hi I wonder if you can offer some advise please. I recently sanded back to bare wood my pine dining table top, I then coloured it with Colron Refined Beeswax in antique pine. Can you suggest how I may tone down the orange and then seal the wood to stop the colour transfer.

You will often find that the natural tones of the wood are highlighted when a finish is applied and with Pine, this can be orange or pinks with pine. Although Waxes will not have that much impact on the colour but the combination of the colour in the wax and the natural tones of the wood may be what is causing that finish.

Wax does not dry hard either, it can help to protect the wood and is a traditional treatment but it does not cure to a solid finish and this is why you are getting some rubbing off. For a more durable and long lasting finish that dries hard you could look at a Hard Wax Oil such as the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil you would need to remove all the current wax finish however as this will prevent penetration of the oil into the surface of the wood.

Hello, I wonder whether you might be able to help. I really like timber kitchen worktops, but have bought kitchen units that are a soft taupe colour. With this it seems neither redish nor yellow wood tones work. The woods that appeal in terms of their properties are either new oak or reclaimed iroko worktops.

The aim would be to get these to be lighter and white or grey tone it is a small room! Are there any products that you can recommend for firstly bleaching oak or iroko and then staining oak or iroko in that direction? In the past i have used OSMO tints and polyx oil, but this was for pine floorboards, and I suppose food safety is an issue with worktops. Many thanks for your consideration.

My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. My advice for you would be to get a lighter wood, it you want to get a good white or grey tone to the wood then Iroko is not the wood to go for, oak you could get away with but a pale oak is best.

It is easy to add colour to wood to darken and colour it but not so easy to lighten it and it will be far easier to get a lighter wood than it will be to try to bleach it to the desired colour. Osmo oils are great for white or pale finishes and we have a great Blog Beautiful White Wood for Dreamy Interiors which has great tips on how to achieve a range of white finishes using oils.

And all the Osmo Oils are food safe and suitable for use on worktops. I would be happy to advice further if you would like to get in touch via our contact us page. Polish can be used on a range of surfaces including bare wood and lacquered. Colour will depend on the natural colour of the wood you are applying it to or any treatment that is already on there and test areas are always recommended to ensure you have the right product for your project and the colour is as desired.

For further advice please feel free to call in and speak to one of our Wood Wizards on Great site! I wish to re-coat my exterior west-facing softwood banister with as hard a wearing stain as possible.

Happy to have a lighter coloured rail but not too worried about actual colour, more concerned about minimal maintenance wanted to replace it with brushed stainless steel but my wife would not let me! Any ideas please? Cheers, Nick. You could have a look at the Sikkens Cetol Novatech and Sikkens Cetol Novatop this combination could give a very durable and long lasting finish. If well maintained it can last for a few years before requiring a top up or new treatment.

If you take a look at the products and read all the information and if you have any further questions please do let me know. Always try a test area first. I have a Rosewood wardrobe that has been sitting in a damp shed for over a year now, and the wood is looking a bit worse for wear with some mould starting to show.

The wardrobe was also damaged during a removal. I look forward to hearing from you Kind regards Bruce. It may be necessary to treat the mould with a mould and mildew remover such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray. This will not only remove existing mould but will also kill off any mould spores in the grain of the wood to prevent it coming back. In terms of restoring the wardrobe once it has been sanded down depends on what type of finish you prefer.

There are a wide range of oils, waxes, varnishes and stains that can be used. Feel free to contact are resident experts who will be happy to discuss this project and make some recommendations based on the desired look and finish required. Thank you for your enquiry, if you can email me with details of what is currently on the doors and skirting an what look you are hoping to achieve as well as the type of wood you are applying to, I may be able to narrow down some options for you, please get in touch via our contact us page.

Many of these are American, and some of their terminology or available products are different — stain being a big one! Almost every wood staining video just like the one above shows an oil-based stain being liberally applied, left a few minutes and then the excess wiped down. These then require a finish topcoat. You seem to imply you stock stains of the common American type — intended for their colour much more than their protection, and that can be applied as in the above video.

Can you suggest which products this refers to please? Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. For water based stains you could have a look at the Manns Classic Pine Stain or Manns Classic Oak Stain these are versatile to use and can be intermixed or lightened by adding water. They can be applied in a number of coats, and can raise the grain, light sanding with a finishing pad or high grit sand paper will help.

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters

Staining and waxing wooden bannisters